Cabo - El Cardonal    

Hello ~ After a very rolly evening at Cabo, which no one slept, we dropped John off at the dock and Greg, Matey and I headed for Los Frailes.

  The smallest boat in the HA-HA fleet, a Flicka 20 leaving Los Frailes

   Bon Fire on the beach at Los Frailes

   Panga to Panama guys who kinda piggy backed with the HA-HA.  Check them out at

This was by far the hardest leg since the Bay Area. We've gotten soft in our couple of months of downwind sailing. To make it even more challenging, as Greg went up to reef, I noticed him taking longer than usual. After a couple of yells, "What's going on??" I get the response, "Ahh, something's wrong with the boom." Not really what I wanted to hear... After more questions like, "What do you mean? What's wrong with the boom?" Greg finally has time to process it and our cotter pin that holds the pin that holds the boom to the goosneck sheared off (did you get that?). In other words, our boom was falling off the mast and we couldn't use our mainsail anymore. Hmpft, we had LOTS of wind, so we just sailed with a full Genoa. Banging along in choppy seas getting choppier.

After a number of hours beating ourselves up, and a loop de loop when we almost turned back to Cabo (until we heard an announcement on the radio, "All cruisers with boats in the anchorage in Cabo, please return to your boat immediately - hopefully it will be in enough time, the anchorage is getting nasty"), we were finally a couple of hours out of Frailes when BANG!!!! Greg and I both immediately looked up, checking spreaders and shrouds, till we noticed it was only that our jib sheet exploded. Of course now we had a wildly flapping jib which Greg had to tame. After that was over and after a minor meltdown by yours truly, we happily motored into Los Frailes.

That was the end of our drama lately, we had beautiful days at Los Frailes and Los Muertos (our next stop) snorkeling and attending beach parties with bon fires on the beach with other cruisers in both locations. By this time, it was like a mini Ha-Ha since most of the same boats were at the anchorages and we were still monitoring the radio regularly. In fact, one of the other boats even nicknamed us the Baja - YaHa Fleet.

   Sometimes when Matey sleeps, she kinda slips off the back bench because of the waves - we think it's kinda cute.  Once I had to pick her up out of a 5 gallon bucket.  Notice the 'poop deck' sign over her toilet...

   Believe it or not, there was a Giggling Marlin in Los Muertos - or Bay of Dreams.  You see the developers don't like the name Encenada de Los Muertos all that much since it means Bay of the Dead, so they are trying to change the name of the cove to 'Bay of Dreams'.

   Matey, Conner and Tanner (from s/v Sonadora) looking for treasure on the rocks.

   Imagine my surprise to be sitting in Mexico with a Pacifico and a bottle of Tobasco on the table. Tobasco is made in my 1st home State of Louisiana. As you can see from the menu, this was mostly a gringo joint - the last of this cruise.

   While in Los Muertos we purchased this huge Ahi for $19 US.  Here I am filleting it.  Matey of course is getting fresh sushi.

After leaving Muertos, we had planned to stop off in Balandra Cove, but it was way too rolly, so we kept going till Caleta Lobos which was an absolutely beautiful little cove. Oh, I should mention, the sailing has been fabulous. Los Frailes to Muertos was just about perfect - warm and great wind (Greg jury rigged a fix for our boom and we just used a spinnaker sheet for our exploded Jib sheet). And then Muertos to Caleta Lobos was again great - windy, so we just had a single reefed main with a reefed Jib. We were able to move very well under sail through the Cerralvo Channel, and even got into our anchorage before dark.

   Sunset in Caleta Lobos

   Greg and Matey fishing.  This is the location where Greg got so lucky with all the Trigger fish - and they do make excellent fish tacos!!!!!

Monday before Thanksgiving we pulled into La Paz and anchored outside Marina de La Paz. Pacifica had a good time engaging in the La Paz waltz till a very nice local called us on the radio to tell us about turning our wheel hard over to starboard. As soon as we did that, Pacifica settled right in and stopped "dancing" around her anchor. The current is strange there, most of the time we spent pointing into the current with the wind on our beam.

   Picture taken at anchor with the wind blowing up our stern.

  La Paz waltz

We met some new people in La Paz - both at the anchorage and in the marina. We also had some wonderful food. Our best value meal ever was at La Fonda which a backpacker we ran into on the street told us about. Greg and I both had fancy dinners, mine was a shrimp dish, Greg's was fish, we split a huge bowl of tortilla soup, and each had 2 beers. The total came to about $18 US.

We also had to get our boom fixed. We already had a plan of what to do since this was a modification Greg had been thinking about and had already spoken with Bill of Cat's Paw in Catalina about it. But, we needed a welder and stainless steel for fabrication. So, after we got a recommendation for a local welder on the morning net, we headed over to the shop. I am still gleeful about the response we got - they did it while we waited and even had a spare piece of stainless for our boom. They did lots of intricate work while Greg waited and supervised -- the total came to about $85 US. Meanwhile... Matey and I went to play on the beach.

I have become the ultimate in lazy doggie mom. In La Paz, I just go to the beach, take off Matey's leash and she runs into the water to chase fish. After she swims and jumps for about an hour, I call her out and we leave. But the other evening she did get to romp with a mexican street dog who was probably about a year old and very into running. I was nervous, but they played well together. But soon, Matey tired and we put her back on leash.

Thanksgiving was spent at the Cruisers Thanksgiving dinner (where about 250 people showed up) which was free except for bringing a dish to share. The day after Thanksgiving, we signed up for a scuba diving trip. The first dive, I flaked out - my breathing wasn't good and I knew we were going deep. But Greg and the rest of the crew saw 4 hammerhead sharks while I saw a jumping Marlin from the boat. I would have rathered seen the sharks, but that's how it goes, I didn't feel comfortable forcing myself down. The second dive was in the same place (I think the dive master was hoping to give me another shot at seeing the sharks) but the visibility was not great and there just wasn't anything there. The 3rd dive site was a shallow reef, so there was tons of life and lots to see. 

  Thanksgiving dinner - actually the line getting to the food table, luckily there was more than enough food.

  Greg and I in our Thanksgiving cruiser finest...  Notice the hair - I finally had enough of the long hair in the saltwater - way too much trouble.  So I went for the adventure of a 50 peso haircut in a shop that didn't speak English.  It was really great!  And there are 2 other cruisers that I know of who did the same thing.

   Greg Dreaming - Don't worry he knows she's not much of a sailor and can't filet a fish.

There is a Norther expected to start blowing Thurs - Sat, and we really wanted to get some Island time before then. So, yesterday afternoon after a final visit to the farmer's market, we cancelled on a movie with a couple of cruiser friends and headed out of La Paz. Last night we were at Caleta Lobos again and today we are in a beautiful Cove called El Cardonal. We were headed for Partida Cove, but it was too crowded for our tastes today.

   Scenery of Isla Espiritu Santo

   Scenery of Isla Espiritu Santo

   Crowded Partida Cove (you can see all the little white boats anchored to the left of the cove.

  Our secluded El Cardonal 

When we got here, no one was here. We dropped the hook and started up some fish tacos for lunch (Greg racked up on Trigger fish last night so we have a couple of meals worth). That was until we heard on the radio that others we coming, so we put the lunch on hold and jumped in for a little birthday suit swimming while we were alone. Now there is one other boat here, but they are on the other side of the cove.


   Matey at El Cardonal